Emporio Indipendente per una Cultura Biodiversa (independent emporium for a biodiverse culture). This is what this large, well-stocked bookshop calls itself. Here, visual art exhibitions and encounters with writers and editors are all part of the cultural calendar. “Biodiverse culture” is a reference to the stands in a corner of the shop displaying fair-trade food products, from flour and sugar to teas, pasta and biscuits. There is also a cafe selling strictly local products.